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A/C Shop

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Offline smokey0810

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Location: Amarillo, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:13 am   Post subject: A/C Shop   

Looking for an a/c shop in Amarillo. '95 Caprice, R134A system. Changed out the compressor hoses, orafice tube & dryer. Want to have the system completely sucked dry, so I can refill. Looking for as inexpensive as possible, but also wanting someone who knows what they are doing...Sort of an oxymoron I know...
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Online gr8pumpkin

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:36 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

Call D & K automotive off the canyon e way. Great people. Dan is a good guy.
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Offline Mroldfart2U

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 11:50 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

smokey0810 wrote:
Looking for an a/c shop in Amarillo. '95 Caprice, R134A system. Changed out the compressor hoses, orafice tube & dryer. Want to have the system completely sucked dry, so I can refill. Looking for as inexpensive as possible, but also wanting someone who knows what they are doing...Sort of an oxymoron I know...



PM Sent....

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Offline smokey0810

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Location: Amarillo, Texas

PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 12:36 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

Anyone even know of a place to rent a vacuum pump? Time is a rare thing for me, and so is losing my car for a day or so...
PM sent back to you...Thanks.
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Offline Farmboy

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:18 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

http://www.harborfreight.com/air-vacuum ... 96677.html

These things work like a champ for the money!!! 8)

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Offline hotrodbill

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:52 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

smokey0810 wrote:
Anyone even know of a place to rent a vacuum pump? Time is a rare thing for me, and so is losing my car for a day or so...
PM sent back to you...Thanks.


Your car already has one.....the compressor itself.

First unplug the low pressre switch, and jump it. (usually on the acumulator on GMs) A paper clip in the plug always works.

Hook up your gauges, turn on the AC and make sure the compressor is running.

Open the HIGH side valve, so it vent to the atmosphere. This will draw a suction on the LOW side of the system. After several (like 10-15) minutes, close the HIGH side valve.

Viola, your system will have a vacum now, and your gauges should confirm this. Take note of the readings, and let the system sit for half an hour or so. The gauges should not have moved, if you lost vacum then your system still has a leak (or your gauges do).

Now you are ready to add R134.

(This will not work on all cars, due to the various pressure switches and electronics, they may be equiped with. It will work on 90s GM vehicles (not Cadillacs), and most all older vehicles.)

Work smarter.....not harder.

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Offline Mroldfart2U

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:26 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

smokey0810 wrote:
Anyone even know of a place to rent a vacuum pump? Time is a rare thing for me, and so is losing my car for a day or so...
PM sent back to you...Thanks.



PM sent back to you .... :lol:

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'61 Fairlane 500 (My Dads (R.I.P) Car) ....also needing some love....
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Offline John

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 8:40 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

Hey Bill, I see you said it will put vacuum on the low side but don't you need to put vacuum on the whole system to remove any moisture right? And won't having the high side valve open to atmosphere just pull in more moisture which is what I thought we are trying to get reid of in the first place? Or am I looking at this all wrong and the high side valve is open for the moisture to have somewhere to vent out? Just learning.

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Offline VETTKLR

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:30 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

F that....if you're gonna do it on he cheap, just tie on to the low side with a vacuum line to the manifold or tree and let the 14" or so of vacuum pull that shit out of the entire system. That little pump that Donny posted up is good to go and cheap as can be. 8)

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Offline hotrodbill

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:22 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

The High side valve is open to let out "the moisture" if you will.
The real reason to do it, isn't so much about moisture as it is air. Air isn't a very good thermal conductor, and your AC won't perform as well if it has a lot of air in it.

Think about it. The compressor is trying to build pressure in the High side, but there is nowhere to draw from because the low side is closed, therefore the system develops a vacum on itself. This is why you close the High side valve while the compressor is still running. It keeps the system sealed and de-pressurized.

And yes, it works, I've done it many times.

You will never develop a TRUE vacum, there will always be a trace of other elements in your system. I don't care if you have the best AC pump on the market, in reality it is just a low pressure pump. It is de-pressurizing you system, not vacuming it.

A true vacum, as in the vacum of outer space, would collapse every line in the AC system. The vast majority of people tend to use the word "vacum" very liberally.

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Offline VETTKLR

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:43 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

lolz lmao


Come on, dawg...what's True Vacuum....30"?

If you had 30" of vacuum in the AC lines, that would be the equivalent of 15psi exerting pressure on the outside of the line. A far cry from the 200psi you see in an AC system.



Colt's gonna shit kittens if he ever sees this :lol:

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Offline '79chevyluv

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 10:52 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

indeed ^

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Offline Mroldfart2U

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:45 am   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

VETTKLR wrote:
lolz lmao






Colt's gonna shit kittens if he ever sees this :lol:




LMMFAO!!!!!! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Mroldfart2U.....


i like you. You remind me of when i was young and stupid
REDLINE???!! Hell, shift when it quits pullin'!!!...

'77 Chrysler Newport (Daily Driver) Da USS Banana
'70 Mustang Mach 1 351C 4sp Top Loader 4:56 Geared(Long And Waiting Project){The Saga Begins}
'61 Fairlane 500 (My Dads (R.I.P) Car) ....also needing some love....
'76 Chrysler Volare` (Project Cheep) {Fixing to have to change the Cheep part}
'72 Chrysler Newport (Donner Car)And it has become...
'82 Chevrolet Suburban 12" Lift With 39" Tires (River Toy)
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Offline Colt

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 07, 2010 10:33 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

Yeah, those are called Field Evacuations.. Dont do that..

The old guys used to do it all the time, but that stuff is totally different now days. R12 was VERY forgiving, the new blended freon's out there today are not.

As for the other part, a compressor is not designed to pull a vacuum, it will trash the suction reeds and fuck up the valve plates. All it takes it once, you wont notice the damage, but it's there. Thats why there is a low pressure switch, to prevent it from going into a vacuum ( that and to keep the evap from freezing up, slugging the compressor with liquid freon ).. So with that, you cant possibly run the compressor in a vacuum long enough to pull any kind of moisture out of the system, which means you'll get acid in the system. Then shortly after you'll be replacing everything again.

Compound gauges are also worthless. For the most part, they let you know if your in a vacuum or not.. I micron gauge is needed to know for sure whats going on. You need to draw it down to 1500 micron's, which on a small system can take 30 mins, or 12 hrs, you never know.. Nobody uses them though, even I dont for the most part. I use them when I know the system is highly contaminated.. There are easier ways to get all the moisture out though. Pull it into a vacuum for about 30 mins, give it a small shot of dry nitrogen to break the vacuum. This will cause any liquid water to flash off into a vapor. Then you put it back on the pump. Once you get all of that done, run the system for a while, recover the freon, and do a acid test on the comp oil. If it has acid you have to replace the accumulator/drier, flush the system, fill with comp oil, evac and repeat..

Yada yada yada........ Just dont do field evacs... I'm actually surprised anyone had heard of them before, not many people know about it ( only the old guys )... What doesnt surprise me is that HotRodBill knew about it lmao

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Offline olftboy

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 10, 2010 8:40 pm   Post subject: Re: A/C Shop   

Just a few questions. I was in AC&R for years, but haven't jacked with it (other than personal) for about 10 years. As far as the "blended" refrigerants... isn't 134a pure and not blended? So why isn't 134a as forgiving as R12? (I've always heard it isn't, just curious why it isn't) I used 408 & 409 which were blended and you could play hell getting them right. Never had much problem with the 134a reefers, though.

I never heard of the reeds having issues with running under vacuum. We were taught they only reacted to the difference of pressure on either side of the reed... whether it was 200psi on one side and 50psi on the other, or 5"vacuum on one side and 25"vacuum on the other side. The reed would only see the difference of pressure that it was having to seat with/against. Also, the only issue related to our low pressure switches was with a low refrigerant charge oil is no longer carried by the system which could cause your system to run dry (oil-less).


Now, keep in mind I pretty much only worked on chillers and reefers in the Navy and commercial/home hvac in Amarillo. I understand automotive stuff has it's own quirks. You're never too old to learn something new so I will appreciate any info you have to offer. I will be happy to purge my 'old school' learning and replace it with a little more relevant info. THANKS!!

BTW - We used to "field purge" and then bleed off the "impurities" from the high side while in the Navy. We always had 100% backup (2 compressors per system) so the system never stopped working even during an overhaul, so the field purge was a kind of necessity. (This was early 90's... I'm not that old) :P

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